SPA LEDGE

Magic time. Who doesn’t dream of a little quiet time? Half an hour, that’s all you need, now and then. Soaking in a warm tub, your favorite book, flickering candlelight, soft music and, of course, your wine. Heavenly. A mini spa, in your very own home. What you need is a fabulous ledge to bring those essential elements together. That’s all it takes for some very need down time. No reservations required.

 What a beautiful Mother's Day or birthday gift this ledge would be! Follow along to create your very own and you too will discover the magic.

This is what you will need for your ledge-

6 Poplar 1 1/2" x 1/2" Boards

1 Poplar 2" x 2" Board

Table Saw

Medium and Fine Grit Sandpaper

Latex Primer

Latex Semi-Gloss Paint

Pencil

Square

Gorilla Glue
Safety Goggles

Power Nail Gun

Felt Furniture Protectors

Dimes

I found the boards I used at Home Depot. You have to look for them tucked in one of the lumbar isles. Here is a photo and sku numbers if you need. They come in 4 foot lengths, the 2" x 2" in three foot lengths.

Start by laying the boards across the tub.

I extended the boards over one side of the edge of the tub by 1 ½”.

Then I measured the length of the board from end to end to determine the cut length. This measurement (includes a 3” overlap, 1 ½” for both right and left side) is 32 ½” long. This ledge is designed for a free standing tub. The same process can be used for a tub that is set against a wall, you just have to adjust your measurements, for one side will not have an overlap. All tubs should be measured, these measurements are not a one size fits all.

Next I lined all six boards up to determine the side I wanted for the face of the ledge. I put small pencil check marks on the boards.

Measure each board, use a square to mark cutting line .

Measure and cut all six boards wearing your safety goggles.

Sand lightly all edges.

On a flat surface line the boards up side by side. Place a dime between each board to create a space between each board.

Line the 2 x 2 along the ends of the boards to determine the cut length for the cleat. This piece will become the support for the underside of the ledge. The cleat will also prevent the ledge from sliding off the tub. This one measures about 9” long. I subtracted ½”from the length of the cleat for visual purposes.

Cut two cleats roughly 8 ½” long.

Place one board onto the tub. Place the cleat on top of the board. This is to determine placement of the cleat. There should be about ½” to ¾” space between the cleat and the inside of the tub. The cleat will be attached on the underside of the ledge.

Mark a line for placement onto the board. Measure the distance from the cut edge to the pencil line (5”). Measure from the other side of the board and mark with pencil a line for placement for the cleat. There will be one cleat on the right and one cleat on the left of the ledge, both placement lines 5" from the cut edge.

Mark with X’s next to the line where the cleat will be placed.

Place the boards on a flat surface on their sides.

Apply one coat of primer to the sides. The inside edge of the boards will be difficult to prime and paint once the ledge has been assembled. Let dry.

Apply one coat of your semi-gloss paint to the painted edge. Let dry.

Apply a second coat of the semi-gloss paint to the edge. Let dry.

Flip the boards over onto their painted side and repeat the painting step; paint one coat of primer and two coats of semi-gloss on the sides. Let dry completely between each coat. Check for any drips and sand if needed.

Once the inside edges have dried completely, the ledge is ready to be assembled.

Lay the boards down on a flat surface, side by side, face side down.

Place a dime between each board for spacing at each end. 

Place a small amount of Gorilla Glue on each of the boards.

Place the cleat on the X’s next to the pencil line.

Glue the second cleat to the boards.

Let dry.

Once the glue is dry, flip the ledge over and remove the dimes.

Nail each board in place from the ledge top securing into the cleat. Lightly mark a line on the top of the board to use as a guide for nail placement.

Fill nail holes with wood filler. Let dry, sand lightly.

Paint the ledge with one coat of primer and two coats of semi-gloss. Let dry between coats, sand lightly if needed.

Flip ledge over and apply self stick felt furniture protectors to the ledge to prevent potential scratching of your tub.

Gather your essentials...

Let the magic begin…

And then some...

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FACELIFT FOR A FRENCH FARMHOUSE

They say the kitchen is the heart of the home, nowadays. I believe it is the kitchen table that gives the heart a beat. My kitchen table has raised a family, shared meals, had homework written on, laughed and cried over, decorated cookies on, love letters composed upon and most importantly, been there every day of our lives. Silently taking on everything life has to offer. And life has been good. But there is a price to pay for all good things. A few scratches, dents and scuffs of everyday life. Not so bad, but it was time to give back a little love. A new surface, a new look, and renewed love. Here are the simple steps I took to freshen up my table, you too can follow along and use these same simple techniques to give a fresh look for your heart beat too.

This is what you will need-

Sander

Medium and Fine Grit Sandpaper

Paint Brush/s, Sponge Roller

Primer

Semi-Gloss Cabinet Paint

Metallic Paint

Clear Satin Polycrylic Finish

Script Stencil…to purchase…link here.

Stencil Spray Adhesive

Stencil Stamp/Sponge Roller

Paper Towels

Painter’s Tape
Scissors
Pencil

Start by sanding the surface of the table with the medium sandpaper. This step can be done by hand or with an orbital sander. So much quicker with power tools. Just sand enough to rough up the surface so the paint will grip when applied.

Wipe down table to remove the sand dust.

With a brush or sponge roller, paint one light coat with latex primer. Let dry overnight.

The next day, give the top a light, gentle, by hand, sand with the medium sandpaper. Paint one light coat of cabinet paint. Use either a brush or sponge roller to apply the paint. Let dry overnight.

Sand lightly by hand with fine sandpaper.

Paint a second and third coat with the cabinet paint. Let dry completely. Lightly sand between coats. Let dry overnight between coats.

  

I covered the top of my table with craft paper to layout the design of the stencil. This stencil is titled "Springtime in Paris". It is light and delicate. Just perfect.

This stencil comes in two large sheets, so I cut the stencil into strips for easy handling. The cut line was used to line up the stencil along the table edge as a guide to keep the lettering straight. 

I took a pencil to lightly fill the words in so I could get a feel for how it would look. I numbered each stencil strip so as to make sure I kept them in order.

For two corners, I outlined a running rabbit garden element onto paper. Cut out the silhouette, then traced it onto an empty space of the stencil material. Then I cut out the shape and created a stencil for the ends.

Once I was happy with the look of the script on the craft paper, I was ready to stencil.

Outside, or in a well ventilated area, lightly spray the back side of the stencil with stencil adhesive spray. Let dry about 10-15 minutes.

Place stencil onto table. Gently smooth the stencil down with your fingertips.

Shake or stir your paint.

Pour a small amount of paint into a small container.

With your sponge or roller, tap a small amount of paint onto the sponge. Tap excess paint off the sponge onto the paper towel. Keep as little as possible paint on your sponge.

Start with a light layer of paint by tapping onto the opening of the letters. I have found it best to start with a light layer of paint then go back over lightly a second or third time.

Remove stencil. Move onto the next stencil strip and repeat the tapping process. Once all the letters and shapes have been stenciled, let dry overnight.

Create a thin boarder (about 1/8”) on the edge of the table with painter’s tape. Run one strip on the table top edge, then one strip below. Lightly press when applying the tape, then go back and press firmly to prevent any paint from seeping under. I didn’t measure, just eyed it. I use my thumbnails to press the tape edge down, running non-stop, all the way around the table. 

With a smaller paintbrush (about 1”) fill in the space created by the tape with your paint. By the time I painted all four sides, it was fairly dry, so I painted a light second coat of paint.

As soon as you have finished painting the border, remove painter's tape. 

To finish the top, you need to protect the newly painted surface. I like this finish because it is durable for eating and drinking on without use of coasters or place mats and never yellows over time. I used four coats of Minwax Polycrylic protective finish in clear satin, applied by sponge roller. I waited one day between coats, even though the directions state you can apply a second coat two hours after the first coat. Do not shake the can of finish, just stir before using. I did sand between coats three and four, very lightly in spots, but not over the stenciling or the border on the edge.The finish will dry smoothly and show few if any roller lines. Happy with how the protective top coat finished. Let it dry overnight and my table is ready once again for life.

Lay a runner on….

Set the table...

                                                                                                                            

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