HUGS AND KISSES PILLOW

The air is full of something magical...There must be some little pixie dust floating around because I feel it. Like electricity, it is snapping and sparking all around me. It is there. Just like when a good snow is about to happen. You can just feel it. Maybe you just want to light a little fire, start with this adorable little hug and kisses pillow to send a message. Valentine's Day is just around the corner, and love is always in style. Any time of year. But, when Love is in the air, stand back, because you never know what will happen next. Good to have this little magical pillow on hand, just in case....

A little love affair with cozy places.

This is what you will need-

1 Yd. Natural Denim...Link here

½ Yard Grey Denim...Link here 

Thread, Natural, Gray

14” x 34” Pillow Insert…Link here

20” Zipper
All Purpose Glue Stick

This is a close-up of denim fabric. There are two distinct sides, choose either one, they both are nice.

Wash and dry the natural denim fabric.

Measure, mark and cut two pieces of fabric, 14” x 36”

      SETTING A  ZIPPER FOR A PILLOW

Finish all edges of both pieces of fabric.

Measure and mark fabric with pins. First, mark the center, place a pin. 

To the left of the center pin, measure 10” and place a pin. To the right of the center measure and place another pin 10” from the center. This is where the 20" zipper will be placed. 

Lay the second piece of fabric over the top of the first. Pin in place as shown. Add a second pin to both sides where the zipper will start and stop.

Sew together the pillow front to the back with a 1” seam.  Start with 9 stitches per inch up to the point where the first set of double pins are. Change your stitch length to a big long basting stitch. When you reach the second set of pins, return to 9 stitches per inch.

Remove pins before while sewing, just make sure not to sew over the pin.

Always backtack all stitches at the starting point and ending point. This will reinforce the stitches and keep them from unraveling.

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Press open this seam.

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Lay the fabric flat with the front and back and one seam away from you. See as shown.

Notice the seam allowance near you is a single layer.

Measure and mark with a pin 8” from the left side of the fabric.

Lay the zipper (face down) as shown on the seam allowance at the 8" pin.

Pin the zipper tape to the seam allowance.

Hand baste the zipper tape to the seam allowance using a thread of contrast color.

Switch to a zipper foot as shown. Stitch the zipper (starting at the metal ‘stop’ at the bottom of the zipper) to the seam allowance about 1/8” from the edge of the zipper tape. See as shown.

Sew entire length of the zipper until you reach the zipper (metal pull) tab.

Stop and lift your zipper foot up with the needle still in the fabric. Pull the zipper tab down just enough to clear the foot so you can continue to the end of the zipper. Stop sewing at the little metal ‘stop’.

Flip the fabric over as shown. Make sure the seam is flat.

From the left edge, mark with a pin 8” as shown. Then another pin 8” from the right edge of the fabric. This is where the zipper is to be topstitched. Pin from the front through the seam to stabilize the zipper to the front panel. See as shown. Double pin the start and stop of the zipper.

Switch zipper foot back to the standard presser foot.

Measure and mark with pencil 5/8” from the seam.

Topstitch the entire length of the seam. Make sure the presser foot is aligned about 1/8” from the seam.

When you sew to the first set of double pins, remove pins, stop with the needle in the fabric and lift the pressure foot up.

Lift the fabric up and pull the zipper tab down a few inches.

Lower the pressure foot and continue to stitch. Once you reach the zipper tab, lift the fabric and pull the tab back up. Continue topstitching the entire length of the seam.

Flip the fabric over and remove basting stitches.

Lay the fabric toward you as shown.

Pin the second length of zipper tape to the seam allowance. See pictures.

Switch zipper foot, note the foot is turned to the other side.

Starting at the top of the zipper, sew the tape to the seam allowance, down the tape as close as you can get the needle to the teeth of the zipper.

Stop at the bottom of the zipper.

Flip fabric over, pin the start and stop of the zipper.

Carefully remove the basting stitches between the two pins.

You will see the zipper once the stitches have been removed.

Unzip the entire length of the zipper.

Push the fabric away from the zipper teeth and pin in place as shown.

Switch direction of zipper foot.

Start stitching (really you are just topstitching the fabric down and away from the teeth) at the top of the zipper. Press the fabric away as you topstitch the fabric. Remove pins as you sew.

As you reach the zipper tab, stop sewing, keep the needle in the fabric. Lift foot and pull the zipper tab up to clear the foot.

Continue stitching until you reach the end of the zipper.

Switch back to the standard pressure foot.

Topstitch across the both the top and the bottom of the zipper to stabilize.

Zipper is done! Lightly press seam with an iron.

Copy and cut out X and O letters.

Fold the gray fabric over 4” as shown.

Again, fold the fabric over one more time. There should be three layers of fabric.

Pin the letters through all the layers of fabric as shown.

With a pencil, trace around the letters.

Remove pins and remove the paper letters without moving the fabric.

Place pins through all three layers of fabric as shown.

Cut out letters.

Lay fabric flat. Place pins as shown. Starting from the left the first pin should be 5 ½” from the edge. The next five pins should be spaced 5” apart. There will be a  ½”  allowance for the seam on the left and right side.

Center the pins by measuring down from the top edge 6 ½”. Place a pin. See photo.

Your fabric should look like this.

Remove pins from the letters.

Alternate the X and O letters as shown. Center each letter on the pins. Use a straight edge (or T square) to make sure the letters are all lined up.

Pin the top of the letters to the fabric. Lift the bottom of the letter and run a glue stick down the middle of the letter.

Lay the letters back down.

Remove the pins from the top and finish gluing the back of the top of the letters. 

Lay the letters down flat and gently press in place. Replace the pins. Let dry.

Switch thread to gray. Topstitch the letters to the fabric using small stitches, 15-17 stitches per inch.

Remove pins as you sew.

Wash and dry fabric.

Press any edges that have curled or rolled up.

Lat fabric flat as shown.

Unzip zipper. Don’t forget this step, you won’t be able to turn your pillow inside out!

Lay fabric flat, lining up edges as shown.

Pin fabric together as shown.

With an ½” allowance, stitch the front to the back, all three sides.

At the corners, pivot the pressure foot and stitch three or so stitches, then pivot and continue to stitch. This allows a little room in the corner once the pillow is turned inside out and makes a nice corner.

Snip the two corners to remove extra fabric.

Press all seams open.

Turn you pillow right side out.

Carefully place insert inside of pillow. Zip the pillow shut and you are done!

You never know where a little hug...

Or a kiss will be waiting...

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LET IT SNOW

“Wear your boxers inside out and backwards” I was told by two very excited sons the night before every forecast of snow. And so, not so very long ago, their teachers passed along a folklore to the students at their elementary school. Today, at that very same school, the teachers are still handing out the same advice. I know firsthand, because now I teach there. I love how little things never change. Well who doesn’t love a good snow day? (My hand is raised). There is something in the air you can just feel and see and smell. It is coming. Nothing sweeter than being all snug in your p.j’s waiting for the first flake. And then, watching it as it falls. The beauty and silence of fresh snow. Everyone stops and takes a moment. Ahhh. Start a little folklore of your own with this snowy luminary and watch as the magic happens.

This is what you will need-

Glass Jars

Armour Etch...Link here
Small Craft Brush

Painters Tape

5/16" Hole Punch...Link here

Paper Towel
Epsom Salt
Votive

Wash and dry your glass jar. Any jar will do.

Rip small (about 3/4") lengths of painters tape.

With the hole punch, punch a single hole in each piece.

Place the tape onto the jar. I started at the top and filled the space randomly with tape.

Fill in the tiny spaces with small pieces of the painters tape.

Make sure the dots have been smoothed with a little pressure from your fingertips.

Use protective cover on the surface once you are ready to paint the Armour Etch on. It will permanently harm and scar most surfaces including your sink unless it is stainless steel.

With a small paint brush, dab a small amount of the etching cream on the opening of the dot. Cover the dot completely, it should not run.

Set the jar aside. I like to wait a good 45 minutes. After that much time the etching cream is crusty and much easier to control, less chance it will spread to an uncovered surface (and why I covered all the tiny spaces) which, potentially will etch.

Under slow, cool running water and a wet paper towel, gently rub the etching cream off until all the dots are clean. Use a bucket filled with water to remove the etching cream if you do not have a stainless steel sink.

Give the jar a good wash with soap and water.

Let dry. When the jar is completely dry, the dots "snowflakes" become more visible.

Fill with Epsom salt, light with a votive or tea light.

Get ready, it is coming...

Start your own story here...

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